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SEBUTAPE®
1. Measurement of sebum output using a lipid absorbent tape. K. M. Nordstrum, H. G. Schmus, K. J. McGinley, and J. J. Leyden, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Vol. 87, p260 (1986).

2. Follicule to Follicule Heterogeneity of Sebum Excretion. G.E. Pierard, Dermatologica, Vol. 173, p61 (1986).

3. Seborrhea in Acne-Prone and Acne-Free Patients. G.E. Pierard, C. Pierard-Franchimont, and T. Le, Dermatologica Vol 175 p5 (1987).

4. An Update on the SEBUTAPE® Technique. G. Pierard and A.M. Kligman in "Acne and related disorders" edited by Marks and Plewig, Martin Dunitz Ltd., publishers (1989).

5. Seasonal Modulation of Sebum Excretion. C. Pierard-Franchimont, G. E. Pierard and A. M. Kligman, Dermatologica, Vol 181, p21 (1990).

6. Rhythm of Sebum Excretion during the Menstrual Cycle. C. Pierard-Franchimont, G. E. Pierard, A. M. Kligman, Dermatologica Vol 182 p 211(1991).

7. Formation of oiliness and sebum output-comparison of a lipid-absorbent and occlusive-tape method with photometry. J. Serup, Clin Exp Dermatol. Vol.16, p258-263. (1991) (Abstract not available)

8. A Comparison of the Kinetics of Sebum Secretion in Young Women with and without Acne. C. Pierard-Franchimont, G. E. Pierard, D. Saint-Leger, J. L. Leveque, A.M. Kligman. Dermatologica Vol 183, p120 (1991).

9. The SEBUTAPE® technique for monitoring androgen dependent disorders. G. Pi­®©rard and C. Pi­®©rard-Franchimont, European Journal of Medicine, Vol. 1, p109 (1992).

10. Effect of a Topical Erythromycin-Zinc Formulation on Sebum Delivery. Evaluation by a Combined Photometric - Multi-Step Samplings with SEBUTAPE®. Pierard, Pierard-Franchimont, Clin. Exp. Dermatol., Vol. 18, p410 (1993)

11. Determination of Density of Follicles on Various Regions of the Face by Cyanoacrylate Biopsy: Correlation with Sebum Output. Pagnoni, Kligman, El Gammal, and Stoudemayer, Brit. J. Dermatol., Vol. 131, p862-865, (1994)

12. Kinetics of Sebum Excretion Evaluated by the SEBUTAPE® Chromameter Technique. Pierard, Pierard-Franchimont, Kligman, Skin Pharmacol; Vol. 6, p38-44. (1993)

13. An improved procedure for quantitative analysis of sebum production using SEBUTAPE® . Pagnoni, Kligman, el Gammal, Popp, & Stoudemayer, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Vol. 45, p221-224 (1994)

Chapters in Handbooks with SEBUTAPE® citations.
Handbook of Non-invasive Methods and the Skin, Serup, J., and Jemec, G.B.E., Eds., CRC Press, Boca Raton, 1995.
Chapter 24.1 Sebum-Absorbent Tape and Image Analysis
Bioengineering of the Skin: Methods and Instrumentation, Berardesca E, et al, Editors CRC Press, Boca Raton, 1995.
Chapter 8. Sebum
Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis, Wilhelm, K-P, et al, Editors CRC Press, Boca Raton, in press Fall 1996.
Part IIA Chapter 8. Use of SEBUTAPE® assessed by Image Analysis to Measure Sebaceous Gland Activity

D-SQUAME®
1. Skin Surface Stripping in Diagnosing and Monitoring Inflammatory, Xerotic, and Neoplastic Diseases. Pierard-Franchimont and Pierard, Pediatric Dermatology, 2, p180 (1985).

2. Assessment of aging and actinic changes by cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings. Pierard-Franchimont and Pierard, American Journal of Dermatopathology 9, p500 (1987).

3. A Simple Method for the Study of Scale Pattern and Effect of a Moisturizer.... Serup, Winther and Blichmann, Clinical Experimental Dermatology 14 p277 (1989).

4. The Sticky Slide-Surface Biopsy Method for Studying the Microanatomy and Microtopography of the Skin Surface. Obata, Kligman and Stoudemayer, 1988 AAD Scientific Exhibit.

5. Review of the Instrumental Assessment of Skin: Effects of Cleansing Products. Kajs and Gartstein, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42, 249-271 (July/August, 1991)

6. The Three-hour Test for Rapid Comparison of Effects of Moisturizers and Active Constituents (Urea). Serup, Acta Derm Venereol (Stockh) 1992; Suppl. 177:29-33

7. New Approaches to Assess Topical Corticosteroid Bioequivalence: Pharmacokenetic Evaluation. Pershing, Intern. J. Derm., Vol. 31, Suppl. 1, October 1992 14-20.

8. Squamometry: The Assessment of Xerosis by Colorimetry of D-SQUAME® Adhesive Discs. Pierard, Pierard-Franchimont, St. Leger and Kligman, J. Soc Cosmet. Chem., 47, 297-305 (November/December 1992)

9. Quantification of Dry (Xerotic) Skin by Image Analysis of Scales Removed by Adhesive Discs (D-SQUAME® ). Schatz, Kligman, Manning, and Stoudemayer, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 53-63 (January/February 1993).

Chapters in Handbooks with D-SQUAME® citations.

Handbook of Non-invasive Methods and the Skin, Serup, J., and Jemec, G.B.E., Eds., CRC Press, Boca Raton, 1995.
Chapter 7.2. Sticky Slides and Tape Techniques to Harvest Stratum Corneum
Chapter 7.3 Dry Skin and Scaling Evaluated by D-SQUAME® Disks and Image Analysis
Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis, Wilhelm, K-P, et al, Editors CRC Press, Boca Raton, in press Fall 1996. Part I. Anatomy of the Skin Surface
Part IIA Chapter 2. D-SQUAME® Adhesive Disks
Part IV Chapter 5. Dry Skin (Xerosis): Clinical Scoring and Instrumental Characterization

ABSTRACTS OF JOURNAL ARTICLES
SEBUTAPE®
1. ABSTRACT: A sebum absorbent tape is introduced as a reproducible and convenient method for estimation of sebaceous gland output. We have tested the reproducibility by serial measurement of sebum excretion rates (SER) of 10 individuals over a 6-week period, and in addition have correlated this method with the conventional hexane extraction technique. The sebum absorbent tapes gave consistent values for the SER's, and within subjects variation over the 6-week period was statistically non-significant. A coefficient of variation for the tapes was calculated as 16.25 ± 6.78% based on these serial measurements. Furthermore, the amount of total lipid collected using this technique (n= 16) correlated well with the hexane extraction technique, r = 0.89. Free fatty acids (r = 0.87), triglicerides (r = 0.92), wax and cholesterol esters (r = 0.83), and squalene (r = 0.88) also showed good correlation. Cholesterol occasionally suffered from incomplete separation on thin layer chromatograms; however, a sample cleanup procedure was developed for tape extracts that removed interfering and allowed complete separation of all sebum components.

2. ABSTRACT: We have evaluated the normal variations in the sebum excretion rate from follicle to follicle on the forehead by using the noninvasive techniques of the Lipometre*and SEBUTAPE®. For a given overall amount of sebum excreted to the surface of the skin during a limited period of time, both the number of active sebaceous follicles and the amount of lipids excreted by them may vary. Significant intraindividual and interindividual differences may be found for these parameters. Such a noninvasive approach to the biology of sebaceous glands represents a new tool allowing a precise evaluation of diseases of the sebum excretion and of their treatments

3. ABSTRACT: We have studied the relationship between seborrhoea and acne by using the Lipometre* and SEBUTAPE® films. Seborrhoea is more intense in acne-prone than in acne-free patients. For a given overall amount of sebum excreted, the individual activity of sebaceous follicles differs in the two groups of individuals tested. Seborrhoea in acne-prone patients is due to the presence of some highly active follicles that are almost never encountered in acne-free patients.

4. ABSTRACT: For many years the only practical way to grade the activity of sebaceous glands relied on techniques providing only a global estimate of the amount of sebum present on a given surface of the skin. That area was obviously large compared with the size of the openings of sebaceous follicles. Thus, any difference existing between the activity of individual sebaceous follicles was impossible to demonstrate by these approaches. Quite recently a new tool called SEBUTAPE® (CuDerm Corporation, Dallas, USA) was introduced to study the sebum excretion at the level of the follicular unit. The aim of this paper is to provide an update concerning the SEBUTAPE® technique.

5. ABSTRACT: It is currently agreed that ambient temperature influences the sebum excretion rate. By using the SEBUTAPE® technique we have confirmed this concept, which is related to an increased delivery of sebum to the surface of the skin without an increment in the number of active sebaceous follicles.

6. ABSTRACT: We studied by the SEBUTAPE® technique variations in the sebum excretion and in the number of active sebaceous glands during 3 consecutive menstrual cycles. In seborrheic women we found cyclic changes with a maximum sebum excretion during the week before menstruation. In women with a low sebum production, no changes were found.

7. ABSTRACT: We utilized a sebum-sensitive adhesive film, SEBUTAPE®, to visualize the pore patterns of women with and without acne with computerized image analysis. In normal young women, we found a positive correlation between the number of active sebaceous follicles and total sebum excretion. When seborrhea was intense, this correlation was however lost. The situation was more complex in acne. The severity of seborrhea was positively correlated with the mean sebum excretion of individual follicles but not with the number of active follicles.

8. ABSTRACT: Sebaceous gland function is androgen dependent in man and animals. Many studies have suggested a relationship between the rate of sebum excretion and the severity of androgen-dependent disorders. We present a review of a recently developed non-invasive method to accurately measure sebum excretion. The SEBUTAPE® technique provides information that may be used in monitoring androgen-dependent disorders and in screening the efficacy of antiandrogens.

9. ABSTRACT: Zinc displays "in vitro" some antiandrogen activity through an inhibition of the 5 alpha-reductase activity. The clinical relevance of this effect is unknown, particularly during zinc therapy of acne. As sebum production could be a pharmacological target, we used a sensitive method ofr measuring the rate of sebum delivery to the skin surface during treatment with a topical 4% erythromycin-1.2% zinc acetate formulation. A series of four successive one-hour samplings with SEBUTAPE® was taken to derive the rate of sebum output from the slope of the regression line given by cumulative data. We used as control the classical photmetric method. Such combined evaluation revealed a sebosuppressive effect for the tested topical zinc formulation.

10. ABSTRACT: The density of follicles on various regions of the human face has received scant attention. We used cyanoacrylate surface biopsies to determine the number of follicles on the forehead, cheek, chin and nose of healthy adult white women. Sebum output was assessed on the same regions by means of SEBUTAPE®. The density of follicles and sebum output followed a centro-lateral decreasing gradient. There was no correlation between these two parameters. These regional patterns are important for studies of the pathogenesis of common disorders of the face and their response to treatment.

11. ABSTRACT: We present a novel method for studying the changing characteristics of sebum excretion of facial skin over a 3-hour period. Sebum production can be quantified by analysis of the pore patterns formed on a sebum-sensitive tape (SEBUTAPE® ). We applied the CIE principles of reflectance colorimetry by measuring L*, a* and b* of SEBUTAPE® every 15 min during 3 h of sebum collection. This combined technique yielded valuable new information on the kinetics of sebum excretion, allowing the distinction between the follicular reservoir effect and the sebum flow.

12. SUMMARY: Describes observations related to storage conditions of SEBUTAPE® which has been used to collect sebum samples. Makes recommendations for optimal storage and analysis conditions to enhance the accuracy and reliability of the the SEBUTAPE® method.

D-SQUAME®
1. ABSTRACT: Skin surface stripping is a useful and simple diagnostic tool for the diagnosis of a number of diseases that affect the skin during childhood and adolescence. The procedure has proved to be especially valuable in inflammatory, xerotic, and neoplastic conditions as it provides information regarding pathologic changes as well as diagnosis.

2. ABSTRACT: Cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping is a simple noninvasive approach that is useful in the evaluation of a number of changes affecting the skin during aging and chronic sun exposure. The procedure has proved to be especially valuable in the diagnosis of some inflammatory, xerotic, neoplastic, and dermal atrophic changes. It can also be used to monitor therapy. The technique of computerized image analysis is also conveniently applied to such material.

3. ABSTRACT: A new tape (D-SQUAME® tape) made for scale pattern assessments was used to study epidermal effects of an oil-in-water emulsion applied at random to forearm skin of 16 volunteers. The contralateral forearm served as an untreated control. The emulsion was applied twice daily for 7 days. Tapes were assessed visually in a medical viewer, and a special system for measurement of optical transmission of the tapes was established. Visual evaluation showed (Day 7) an altered pattern in nine volunteers with an absence of flakes on the treated side, which was not seen on the control side. The optical transmission of the tapes from the 16 volunteers was significantly increased in samples from the test side (P<0*001). One week after cessation of treatment the transmission was still increased (P<0*02), and one volunteer presented an altered scale pattern according to visual grading. Measurements of electrical conductance and capacitance, both parameters of epidermal hydration, gave similar results, i.e. increased values on Day 7 and increased conductance 1 week later. Thus, the epidermal effects of the emulsion were protracted. Evaluation of the tape method showed this to be reproducible and valid. The method is easy to use and suited for qualitative and quantitative evaluation of variations in the scale pattern of human skin.

4. ABSTRACT: The topography of the skin surface and the microtopography and cytology of individual corneocytes can be quickly evaluated in detail by a two-stage non-invasive sampling technique. An adhesive coated glass slide removes one or more layers of corneocytes which after staining with hematoxylin and eosin are examined both by light and fluorescence microscopy. A secondsample from the same site is obtained by a slide containing a drop of cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) pressed to the surface for 30 secondsand then stained with toluidine blue.

5. ABSTRACT: The role of biophysical instrumental techniques assessing the effect of cleansing products on the skin is reviewed. Commercially available instruments can measure numerous skin characteristics: water holding, color, blood microcirculation, viscoelastic properties, surface profile, and desquamation. These noninvasive techniques can be used in concert with expert and consumer evaluations of visual and tactile changes. The use of multiple instruments is recommended to test the broad spectrum of surfactant and soap effects. Key requirements for accurate and reproducible measurements include a controlled environment, acclimation of subjects, standard measurement procedures, realistic product application protocols, and qualified operators.

6. ABSTRACT: An in vivo skin test for rapid comparison of the efficacy of moisturizers is introduced. Test substances were applied to flexor side forearm skin, and measurements by non-invasive techniques were performed after 3 h. As indicators of epidermal hydration, the electrical conductance and capacitance were measured. To quantify the effects on scale pattern, D-SQUAME® tapes were scored and the optical transmission measured. Moreover, skin surface lipids resulting from lotion lipids were measured. Lotions and different concentrations of urea could be ranked in a consistent way, viz. Untreated skin<vehicle< 3% urea lotion. Urea was concluded to be very potent as a skin humidifier and as a descaling agent, particularly in 10% concentration. Humidity characteristics correlated much better with the concentration of urea than with lipidization of the skin surface due to lotion lipids. A 3-hour test period was sufficient for the evaluation of the effects of moisturizers on both epidermal hydration and scale pattern. With a rapid test method, sources of variation such as diurnal and day-today variations, dosage and non-compliance are easily controlled. Further , by using non-invasive methods, the assessment has been rendered objective.

7. ABSTRACT: An ideal method for measuring the bioavailability of topical corticosteroids should be simple, accurate, and adaptable to a variety of settings and should not require extensive special training to perform. Drug uptake into the stratum corneum, measured by tapestripping, is correlated with the pharmacodynamic response of skin blanching, observed in the vasoconstrictor assay. Differences in stratum corneum drug uptake can be objectively quantitated as a function of time, occlusion, dose applied, and vehicle. Tapestripping measurements are reproducible within individual subjects, but large interindividual variablities may exist. The chromameter, a new technology, objectively quantitates color numerically and can be used to measure skin blanching as part of the pharmacodynamic response to topical corticosteroids. The chromameter offers an easy, objective method with which to quantitate the pharmacodynamic response of topical corticosteroids. Both methods allow a more mechanistic approach than currently used methods to investigate topical drug pharmacokinetics and pharmacodynamics.

8. ABSTRACT: Clinical grading of the level of scaling in winter xerosis is highly subjective and crude. We have developed noninvasive objective methods to obtain more reliable information. Photographic records of epiluminescence microscopy and of cyanoacrylate skin surface biopsies enable greatly improved visualization of the scaly surface. These evaluations, however, remain semiquantitative. A real quantitative assessment is achieved by collecting corneocytes on adhesive discs (D-SQUAME®) under standardized pressures, and by staining them with toluidine blue and basic fuchsin. The specimen is then subjected to colorimetry in the chroma C*mode to estimate the quantity of scales.

9. ABSTRACT: Clinical grading of dry (xerotic) skin is unreliable, being influenced by several variables, especially ambient humidity. We utilized commercially available adhesive-coated discs ( D-SQUAME® ) to sample the outer portion of the stratum corneum. A procedure was then developed using image analysis to quantify the degree of scaling, using two parameters: 1) the percentage area covered by scales and 2) the distribution of scales according to five thickness levels. There two values were mathematically integrated into one final value, the desquamation index. We showed that image analysis accurately distinguished the intensity of scaling among individuals whose legs were, respectively, non-dry, moderately dry, and severely dry. The method was especially valuable for quantifying the differing efficacies of three moisturizers evaluated by regression procedure.


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